How to Install Hail Netting: Step-by-Step Orchard Guide

Editor’s Note: This article is part of our Hail Netting Complete Guide. For system types, timing guides, and cost comparisons, visit the Hub.

Installing permanent overhead hail netting follows an 11-step sequence: decide roof design and post spacing, set posts and deadman anchors, run the wire grid to light tension, deploy and clip the net loosely, then bring everything to gauged final tension. Get the foundation and the 30cm net overlaps right, and the system lasts 10–15 years.

This guide covers permanent overhead hail netting installation — the post-and-wire structure that stays in place year-round. Drape/canopy systems (laid directly over the tree canopy each season) follow a simpler process covered in a separate guide.

Installing a permanent overhead system is a structural engineering project. Done right, it lasts 10–15 years with minimal maintenance. Done wrong, one storm event undoes months of work. This guide gives you the sequence, the specifications, and the details that most installation guides skip.

What Should You Decide Before You Order Any Materials?

Decide your roof design (gable vs flat canopy) and your post spacing before ordering anything — these two choices lock in your material list, your labour requirement, and how the structure performs under hail. ¹ Most installation problems trace back to decisions made — or not made — before the first post went in the ground.

Gable (Pitched) or Flat Canopy?

Net Height and Post Spacing

Standard heights by crop:

• Stone fruit (open vase training): 3.6m net height
• Stone fruit (general): 4–5.5m
• Taller tree crops: 6m+

Post spacing: perimeter posts every 15–20m, internal posts at every second wire grid intersection.

If you’re not using an experienced contractor, get professional design advice before ordering anything. ¹ The post spacing, wire sizing, and anchor positioning are interdependent — changing one affects the others.

What Materials Do You Need for a Hail Netting Installation?

You need four material groups before work starts: structure (treated timber or galvanised steel posts plus deadman anchors), wire (high-tensile grid cable plus heavier stay wire), fixing hardware (clips, clamps, and a tension gauge), and the netting itself. Go through this list line by line before anything arrives on site — missing the wrong component mid-job can mean undoing work you’ve already done.

Before installation begins, confirm you have:

Structure:

• [ ] Perimeter posts — CCA H5 treated timber (SED ≥200mm) or galvanised steel. CCA H5 timber life: 40 years ¹
• [ ] Internal posts — CCA H5 (SED ≥150mm)
• [ ] Anchor posts / deadman logs (SED ≥225mm for buried deadman anchors)
• [ ] Concrete for post bases (perimeter posts require concrete footings)

Wire:

• [ ] Main grid wire — minimum 3.15mm high-tensile, recommended 6.1mm or 7.5mm multi-strand cable ¹
• [ ] Stay wires — double the gauge of your main grid wire ¹
• [ ] Side netting fixing wire — 3.15mm HT galvanised spring wire
• [ ] All wire: heavy or double-galvanised only

Fixing Hardware:

• [ ] C-hooks or equivalent net fixing clips
• [ ] Duralink clamps or galvanised wool clips (for permanent net line attachment)
• [ ] Turnbuckles and tensioning hardware
• [ ] Wire strainer with tension gauge — non-negotiable ¹
• [ ] Galvanised nails, bolts, and fasteners only (no bare steel)

Netting:

• [ ] Net panels with pre-sewn selvedge (most manufacturers pre-thread polytube for easier rope installation)
• [ ] Net rope / selvedge rope
• [ ] Overlap clips (≥30cm overlap required at all joins)

How Do You Build the Foundation: Posts and Anchoring? (Phase 1)

Bury perimeter posts 1.0–1.5m in concrete footings, keep them vertical to within 2°, and set deadman anchors at a horizontal distance equal to the post height — this foundation is what keeps the structure standing through a storm. It’s the part growers most want to rush: unglamorous, slow, and you don’t see the net go up until it’s done. A structure that’s been standing for 12 years is standing because someone got the posts and anchors right on day one.

Step 1: Set Posts

Perimeter posts: Bury 1.0–1.5m, with concrete footing. In sandy soils, add anti-sink pads at the base to prevent settling. ¹

Internal posts: Typically not buried — they sit on the surface or on short footings. In soft ground, anti-sink pads are required here too.

Post verticality matters: use a level. A post that’s 2° off vertical transfers uneven loads into the wire system that compound across the span.

Step 2: Install Anchoring System

The deadman (buried log) is the most practical anchor for most orchard installations. ¹

Deadman specifications:

• Log SED: ≥225mm
• Burial depth: 1.5m
• Connect to stay wire via screw anchor
• Stay wire angle: maximum 45° from post top — steeper angles push too much load downward into the soil
• Stay wire gauge: double the main grid wire

Positioning rule: For a 5m-high structure, the deadman anchor should be at least 5m horizontally from the post base — equal to the post height. ¹

How Do You Install the Wire Grid? (Phase 2)

Run the main grid wires between posts in their grid pattern and bring them to firm tension only — never final tension — because the net itself will change tension distribution once it goes on. The wire grid is the skeleton the net lives on for the next decade. The temptation here is to get everything tight and solid as fast as possible because it looks more finished — and that instinct is the most common mistake in the entire sequence.

Step 3: Install Main Grid Wires (Light Tension Only)

Run main grid wires between posts in the grid pattern. At this stage, bring them to firm tension only — not final tension. ¹

The sequence matters: wires will be adjusted again after the net is in place. Over-tensioning now creates problems at final installation.

Routing direction: Run wire and net panels along the orchard row direction wherever possible. This simplifies net deployment and makes access for picking equipment easier.

One documented mistake worth naming: In a North Queensland case, the installer used 4mm fencing wire for internal grid runs. It stretched excessively under load, sagging the structure. The recommended minimum is 6mm cable. ¹ Undersizing wire is a common cost-cutting error with expensive consequences.

How Do You Install the Net Itself? (Phase 3)

Thread the net rope, bundle the panels onto the grid, unfurl them with no tension, clip them with C-hooks, then apply light tension and permanently fix the ropes — in that order. The sequence matters more than speed. Each step is deliberately staged so tension distributes evenly across the structure; skip a step or reorder them and you’ll be pulling the net back off to fix problems later.

Step 4: Thread the Net Rope

Thread the net rope through the selvedge edge of each net panel. Most manufacturers pre-install polytube in the selvedge to simplify this — the rope slides through the tube without needing the net fully unrolled. ¹

Step 5: Place Net Bundle on Wire Grid

Lift the bundled net panels onto the wire grid. Keep them bundled — you’ll unfurl them in the next step.

Step 6: Unfurl the Net (No Tension)

Connect net ropes to perimeter wires at both ends of the panel. Do not apply tension. Unfurl the net to its full length. Let it lie on the wire grid without pulling it tight. ¹

Step 7: Fix Net to Grid Wires with C-Hooks

Use C-hooks (or equivalent clips) to pull the support wires and net ropes close together along the span. This distributes the net’s position on the grid before final tensioning. ¹

Step 8: Apply Light Tension to Net Ropes

Now bring net ropes to light (firm) tension — not final. The system should look set but not under full load. ¹

Step 9: Permanently Fix Net Ropes

Using Duralink clamps or galvanised wool clips, permanently attach net ropes to support wires. This is the lock-in point — net position is now fixed relative to the wire grid. ¹

Overlap critical check: All joins between adjacent net panels require minimum 30cm overlap. ¹ Less than this and hailstones find the gap — they always do.

How Do You Finish: Side Netting and Final Tensioning? (Phase 4)

Install the side netting last to close the enclosure, then bring every main grid wire and net rope to its design tension using a wire strainer with a gauge — never by feel. This is where crews either lock in a solid 15-year structure or compromise the whole thing with one shortcut. Neither step rewards rushing.

Step 10: Install Side Netting

Side net panels are installed last, closing the perimeter of the enclosure. Side nets attach to the structure using spring wire (3.15mm HT galvanised) and fixing clips. ¹

Plan door positions before final installation. Doors can be simple weighted curtain-type (pipe with counterweight) or hinged panel frames. Decide this at design stage — retrofitting door openings after installation is difficult.

Step 11: Final Tensioning

Using the wire strainer with tension gauge, bring all main grid wires and net ropes to their design tension. ¹

This is the step most growers do by feel. Don’t. Correct tension is a measurement. Under-tensioned systems sag and shift in wind. Over-tensioned systems transmit hail impact as shock rather than absorbing it — a net at excessive tension can tear on impact rather than flex.

Optional but recommended: Tie net panels to vertical grid wires at intervals. This transfers some wind load laterally to the side anchoring, reducing stress on the windward anchor system. ¹

How Long Does a Hail Netting Installation Take?

Budget 3–4 weeks per hectare for a first installation: roughly 1 week per hectare on posts and anchoring, and 2 weeks per hectare on wire and net. Experienced crews go faster, but the honest answer is that it takes longer than you think — and longer than any contractor’s initial estimate. Here’s what the real numbers look like from documented installations, not best-case projections.

Real data from documented permanent overhead installations: ¹

These are experienced teams working efficiently. First-time installations typically take longer. For planning purposes:

• Phase 1 (posts and anchoring): approximately 1 week per hectare with an experienced crew
• Phase 2–3 (wire and net): approximately 2 weeks per hectare
• Total: budget 3–4 weeks per hectare for a first installation

What Are the Most Common Hail Netting Installation Mistakes?

The five mistakes that cost growers most: over-tensioning the net (it tears instead of flexing), joint overlaps under 30cm, shallow internal posts, end posts without stay wires, and a flat roof in a snow zone. Every failure case in this table came from someone who knew they were taking a shortcut and decided the risk was acceptable. In most cases, it worked fine for a season or two — then a storm arrived. These are not hypotheticals pulled from textbooks; they are documented failures from real orchards, recorded by researchers who went back and asked what went wrong. ¹

What Should You Check After Installation, Before the First Hail?

Before the first storm, confirm every net overlap is ≥30cm and clipped, the net clears the canopy by at least 50cm, all end and corner posts have tensioned stay wires, the side netting closes flush at ground level, and beehives are inside if your mesh is ≤12mm. The installation is done, but the system isn’t proven until it weathers its first real event. Before that happens, walk the entire enclosure with fresh eyes — preferably not the crew who built it, since they’ll unconsciously overlook what they already decided was acceptable.

Once the system is up, inspect these points before the first hail event:

• [ ] All net overlaps are ≥30cm and clipped at 50–100cm intervals
• [ ] Net does not contact tree canopy — minimum 50cm clearance above canopy ¹
• [ ] All end and corner posts have stay wires tensioned to correct load
• [ ] Side netting is closed with no gaps at ground level
• [ ] If your mesh is ≤12mm: beehives are placed inside the net (see our bee management guide)
• [ ] After the first hail event: walk every row and check for damage, stretched sections, or clip failures

Request Hail Netting Specifications and a Quote

Footnotes

¹ Rigden, P. (2008). To Net or Not to Net, 3rd Edition. Department of Primary Industries and Fisheries, Queensland. 74pp. Covers: post specifications (p.10, 12), anchoring systems (p.10–12), wire specifications (p.11–12, 14), 10-step installation sequence (p.15–16), gable vs flat canopy design (p.13), overlap requirements (p.14), real installation timing data (p.49–51), and documented failure cases from 18 grower case studies. [Queensland DPI&F publication — not available online.]

Acknowledgement

Much of the structural and installation data in this guide draws on the field research of Peter Rigden, whose To Net or Not to Net (3rd Edition, 2008) remains the most comprehensive practitioner guide on orchard protective netting ever published. Rigden’s 18-grower case studies, failure documentation, and engineering specifications were compiled through years of direct fieldwork across Queensland, New South Wales, and Victoria. We are grateful for his contribution to the industry — the growers who avoid a collapsed end post in a storm, or find the right anchor depth on their first attempt, owe that knowledge to his meticulous work.

Further Reading

• Hail Netting Accessories: Complete Guide
• When to Install and Remove Hail Netting
• Hail Netting Types Compared
• Complete Hail Netting Guide

Frequently Asked Questions

How far apart should hail netting posts be?

Set perimeter posts every 15–20m, and place internal posts at every second wire-grid intersection. Post spacing isn’t a standalone number — it’s tied to your wire gauge and anchor positioning, so changing one affects the others. For a 5m-high structure on heavier hail loads, lean toward the tighter end of that range. If you aren’t working with an experienced contractor, get a professional design before ordering, because re-spacing posts after the holes are dug is expensive.

How deep do hail netting posts need to be buried?

Bury perimeter posts 1.0–1.5m deep with a concrete footing. Internal posts usually aren’t buried — they sit on the surface or short footings — but in soft or sandy ground both need anti-sink pads to stop settling. Depth matters less than verticality and anchoring: a post that’s 2° off vertical feeds uneven load into the whole wire system, and a shallow post without a properly placed stay wire will pull in during a storm regardless of how deep it sits.

What size wire is used for a hail netting grid?

The absolute minimum is 3.15mm high-tensile wire, but the recommended main grid is 6.1mm or 7.5mm multi-strand cable. Stay wires should be double the gauge of your main grid wire. Undersizing here is the classic cost-cutting error: in one documented case an installer used 4mm fencing wire for internal runs, and it stretched so much under load that the whole structure sagged. All wire must be heavy or double-galvanised — never bare steel.

Why does net overlap need to be at least 30cm?

Below 30cm, hailstones find the gap at the join — they always do. The 30cm figure isn’t conservative padding; it’s the minimum needed for the overlap to hold under load and movement. I’ve had growers report a net that “worked everywhere except one section,” and the install photos showed a 15cm overlap at that exact join. If you’re working fast and unsure, go to 35–40cm. The extra net costs almost nothing compared to a hole in your protection.

How long does it take to install hail netting?

Budget 3–4 weeks per hectare for a first installation — about 1 week per hectare for posts and anchoring, and 2 weeks per hectare for wire and net. Documented installations by experienced crews ran faster, but nearly every installer reports the job took longer than planned. The delay usually isn’t the work itself; it’s the decisions at the edges — door positions, boundaries with irrigation, the last 10% of the perimeter that always has a complication.

Can I install hail netting myself, or do I need a contractor?

A capable grower with a small crew can install permanent overhead netting, and many do. But the design stage — post spacing, wire sizing, anchor geometry, and roof type — is interdependent and unforgiving of mistakes, so get professional design advice before ordering if you don’t have an experienced contractor. The physical work is straightforward once you understand the sequence. The two places DIY installs most often go wrong are tensioning by feel instead of with a gauge, and undersized grid wire.

Why is final tensioning done with a gauge instead of by feel?

Correct tension is a measurement, not a sensation. Under-tensioned systems sag and shift in wind; over-tensioned systems transmit hail impact as shock and can tear on impact rather than flexing. “Feels right,” “I pulled it hard with a strainer,” and “it doesn’t sag much” are all different from the actual design tension. A wire strainer with a tension gauge is cheap to rent or buy — far cheaper than a system that fails because the tension was wrong.

Do I need a gable roof or a flat canopy for hail netting?

A flat canopy suits most apple and stone-fruit growers in lower-to-moderate hail zones and is simpler and cheaper to build. Gable (pitched) roofs shed large hail down into the inter-row valleys and make sense in high-frequency, large-hail regions. The critical flat-canopy detail: run your support cables directly above the tree row, not between rows, so the net sags into the inter-row space under hail weight instead of onto your canopy.

By Kevin Lyu | EyouAgro — 28 years (since 1996) manufacturing hail netting for orchards worldwide, from a factory with 8 production lines.

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